Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol 1999 May-Jun;12(3):120-4

Skin Enhancement Center, University Dermatologics Inc., Mayfield Heights, Ohio, USA.

Cosmetic enhancement of the eye area after esthetic surgery allows the patient to get back into the mainstream of life faster. It also improves their psychic state by blocking out discoloration, helping to disguise incision scars and artistically coloring the face to enhance the results of the surgery. The patients automatically feel better, when they look better. After a surgical procedure, there are temporary and permanent structural changes that appear with blepharoplasty and laser surgery. Although these surgeries will take away loose skin, puffy fat deposits and wrinkles, they do not change the bone structure or eye placement. Before starting a makeup application, analyzation of the eyes for their structural features help the artist know the value of colors to be used. The measuring points of the brow along with the importance of framing the eye will also be discussed. Once the brows and the eyes have been analyzed, the artist needs to take into consideration the personality of the patient. This helps the artist decide on the colors, value, intensity and design which will be applied to the patient. Before eye makeup can be applied, the use of primers, concealers and/or camouflage creams will be used to block out any discoloration in the eye area. We will look at concerns in formulation of products that will go around the eyes after surgery. The application of cosmetic products should be used as an accessory. Women have a variety of dress styles: casual, business or evening. The style of makeup application should work in conjunction with what they are wearing and how they are feeling at the time. Just as there are many facets to a woman, there are various styles of application to fit her personality.

PMID: 10393519, UI: 99322437

MicroNews

Editor: Zwerling, Charles MD
Published monthly in the USA 1999 to present

This monthly newsletter is published by the American Academy of Micropigmentation and contains articles concerning: legislative and insurance updates, original articles, case reports and studies, new research in the area of pigments and topical anesthesia, new products, forums for exchange of professional ideas, news briefs

MICROPIGMENTATION: The Journal of the American Academy of Micropigmentation

Editors: Zwerling & Goldstein, MD
published in the USA,  1998

The journal contains articles about Topical Anesthesia, Iron Oxide Color, non grafted areloa tattooing, MRI update, photographic case studies, camouflage makeup, legal issues and insurance updates, training and certification as well as a section on international news.

Turk J Pediatr 1998 Jul-Sep;40(3):453-9

Department of Otorhinolaryngology, Hacettepe University Faculty of Medicine, Ankara.

Cherubism is the hereditary form of the fibrous dysplasia of the jaws, but it may be seen sporadically as well. The disease has a self-limited nature and is rarely apparent before the age of two. There is no need to interfere surgically with these lesions of the mandible or the maxilla unless the child is severely affected, i.e. the disease deteriorates respiration, deglutition, vision, or the psychiatric makeup of the child due to cosmetic reasons. The clinical presentation and radiological evaluation of these children are so typical that the pediatrician and pediatric otolaryngologist need to be informed about this rarely seen disease. A case of a cherubic child, with his clinical appearance as well as his radiological evaluation, and discussion about the clinical outcome are presented.

PMID: 9763913, UI: 98436404

FDA Consum 1998 Jan-Feb;32(1):38

PMID: 9508551, UI: 98171435

J Nerv Ment Dis 1997 Sep;185(9):570-7

Butler Hospital, Providence, Rhode Island 02906, USA.

Gender differences in body dysmorphic disorder (BDD) have received little investigation. This study assessed gender differences in 188 subjects with BDD who were evaluated with instruments to assess demographic characteristics, clinical features of BDD, treatment history, and comorbid Axis I disorders. Ninety-three (49%) subjects were women, and 95 (51%) were men. Men and women did not significantly differ in terms of most variables examined, including rates of major depression, although women were more likely to be preoccupied with their hips and their weight, pick their skin and camouflage with makeup, and have comorbid bulimia nervosa. Men were more likely to be preoccupied with body build, genitals, and hair thinning, use a hat for camouflage, be unmarried, and have alcohol abuse or dependence. Although men were as likely as women to seek nonpsychiatric medical and surgical treatment, women were more likely to receive such care. Men, however, were as likely as women to have cosmetic surgery. Although the clinical features of BDD appear remarkably similar in women and men, there are some differences, some of which reflect those found in the general population, suggesting that cultural norms and values may influence the content of BDD symptoms.

PMID: 9307619, UI: 97452829

Plast Reconstr Surg 1995 Dec;96(7):1573-85; discussion 1586-7

Mount Sinai Medical Center, New York, N.Y., USA.

Although highly specialized burn centers have significantly reduced mortality rates following extensive total body surface area burns, survivors are often left with grotesque facial disfigurement. The strategy of modern facial restoration emphasizes enhancement of aesthetic appearance as significantly as mitigation of functional impairment. Criteria for success are (1) an undistracted "normal" look at conversational distance, (2) facial balance and symmetry, (3) distinct aesthetic units fused by inconspicuous scars, (4) "doughy" skin texture appropriate for corrective makeup, and (5) dynamic facial expression. Since 1985, the author has successfully restored 17 severely disfigured burned faces by replacement of entire aesthetic units with microvascular "prepatterned" composite flaps blended into the facial canvas by cosmetic camouflage techniques. The series includes hemiface (2), neck/jaw (5), chin/lower lip (3), cheek/malar (5), peri-orbital (2), nose (3), upper lip (4), and ear reconstructions (4). Flaps represented are free preauricular (1), radial forearm (6), ulnar forearm (1), free scapular (6), ilio-osteocutaneous (2), temporoparietal (8), vascularized forehead island (3), supraclavicular (1), and SMAS (1). Important to outcome is extensive initial intraoperative "sculpting" to simulate normal planes and contours. Seams are placed at junctions of facial components. Three-dimensional imaging is used to assess architectural asymmetries, and bone grafts are aided by computer-generated acrylic models. Adjunctive procedures include tensor fasciae latae slings, intraoperative tissue expansion, suction-assisted lipectomy, and scar management. After restoration of facial form and texture, flesh color make-up and/or tattooing of beard, lips, scars, eyebrows, etc., aid to hide scars and pigment the skin to harmonize with the rest of the face. In all cases, facial integrity has been aesthetically restored and, in most instances, with makeup, is near normal in social settings at conversational distances. Facial animation is retained and color matches are excellent. One flap was lost early in the series.

PMID: 7480277, UI: 96086682

Dermatol Clin 1995 Apr;13(2):467-72

MICROPIGMENTATION: 
State of the Art,

Zwerling, Charles, MD FACS et al.
copyrighted, printed in the USA
Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 93-061357

 The official textbook of the American Academy of Micropigmentation. The book, 2nd edition,  published in 1994 discusses the medical legal and scientific applications of Permanent Makeup, permanent cosmetics, and tattooing. Methodology, Post procedural Consideration, Basic/Advanced Techniques, Indications/Contra indications, Complications/Management, FDA and State  Regulations, History of Tattooing, Instrumentation - Description and Development, Anesthesia, Role of the Assistant, Blepharopigmentation Techniques, Brow Pigmentation Technique, Lip Pigmentation Techniques, Breast Areolar Pigmentation, Advanced Dermalpigmentation Techniques, Psychological Considerations, Practical Clinical Anatomy, Morphology, Photography, Patient Selection, Clinical Evaluation, Preprocedural Consideration, Artistic Technique: CLIMB, Complications of Tattooing, Pigments, State of the Art, Quality Assurance

Department of Dermatology, University of California San Francisco, USA.

Camouflage therapy is a system of cosmetic techniques designed for patients to use to assist themselves in coping constructively with the psychological and physical trauma of their disfigurements. It is described as a "system" because these techniques are interrelated. A camouflage therapist may teach the patient to use one, two, or all of the techniques at the same time in order to normalize their appearance. Four basic techniques have been described in this article. They are as follows: (1) the use of opaque, waterproof cover creams to conceal scarring; (2) the application of pancake makeup for patients with oily or acne-prone skin; (3) color correctors to obliterate discoloration from postoperative trauma; and (4) recreating imperfections on the skin. For more information about the use of cosmetics to normalize the appearance of physical disfigurements, the following books are recommended.

PMID: 7600717, UI: 95324115

Cancer Epidemiol Biomarkers Prev 1994 Apr-May;3(3):197-204

Division of Medical Imaging, Surgical and Dental Drug Products, Food and Drug Administration, Rockville, MD 20857.

A general overview of the FDA new-drug evaluation process is presented with special emphasis on the regulatory requirements as outlined in the federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act and the interpretive New Drug Regulations. Included is a description of the administrative/scientific makeup and functions of the new-drug evaluation divisions within the Center for Drug Evaluation and Research. Some specifics relating to the investigative development of anticaries and plaque/gingivitis new drug products are discussed.

PMID: 1432918, UI: 93058909

Environ Health Perspect 1991 Aug;94:121-3

Graduate School of Public and International Affairs, University of Pittsburgh, PA 15217.

Kohl is a widely used traditional cosmetic. It is mainly worn around the eyes in Asia, Africa, and the Middle East. It may be a pervasive source of lead poisoning in those areas and among individuals from those areas who have immigrated to developed nations. Samples of kohl were purchased in Morocco, Mauritania, Great Britain, and the United States. Some of these samples originated from Pakistan, India, and Saudi Arabia. Kohl is widely believed to consist of antimony, but analysis consistently revealed only trace amounts of antimony. Nine of the twenty-two samples tested contained less than 0.6% lead; however, seven samples had lead levels in excess of 50%. The remainder ranged from 3.31 to 37.3%. Third-world-manufactured kohls were purchased in the United States and Britain, suggesting that this hazard is no longer confined to the third world. Those kohls that contained lead were sold in violation of laws on lead in cosmetics in both of these nations. Third-world physicians and health care workers appear to be unaware of possible lead uptake from unsuspected traditionally used items. Physicians in developed nations with patients from Asia, the Middle East, and North Africa need to factor in the possibility of past or present lead intake from unorthodox sources such as kohl.

PMID: 1954922, UI: 92063915

Am J Ophthalmol 1989 Apr 15;107(4):341-7

Zwerling and Christensen: Blepharopigmentation, chapter 47. A synopsis and review of the micropigmentation. Included is the survey results and discussion by American Society of Micropigmentation Surgery. The retrospective survey of ophthalmologists lists the major and minor complications resulting from eyeliner surgery from almost 8,000 cases nationally.

MICROPIGMENTATION

Zwerling, Charles, MD FACS et al.
copyrighted 1986, printed in the USA
Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 85-61708
Published by Slack Inc. New Jersey
ISBN: 0-943432-55-3

 The first textbook  of Micropigmentation. The book, 1st edition,  published in 1986 discusses the medical legal and scientific applications of Permanent Makeup, permanent cosmetics, and tattooing. Methodology, Post procedural Consideration, Basic/Advanced Techniques, Indications/Contra indications, History of Tattoos Complications/Management, FDA and State  Regulations, Instrumentation - Description and Development, Anesthesia, Role of the Assistant, Blepharopigmentation Techniques, Brow Pigmentation Technique, Lip Pigmentation Techniques, Breast Areolar Pigmentation, Advanced Dermalpigmentation Techniques, Psychological Considerations, Practical Clinical Anatomy, Morphology, Photography, Patient Selection, Clinical Evaluation, Preprocedural Consideration, Artistic Technique: CLIMB, Complications of Tattooing, Pigments, State of the Art, Quality Assurance

Meningitis and Special Pathogens Branch, Centers for Disease Control, Atlanta, Georgia 30333.

In 1986, an outbreak of Moraxella follicular conjunctivitis occurred in girls attending a Navajo boarding school in New Mexico. We diagnosed 19 cases of culture-proven, and 21 of clinical conjunctivitis based on isolation of Moraxella from conjunctival cultures and the occurrence of symptoms significantly associated with positive culture. Sharing eye makeup was significantly associated with Moraxella-positive conjunctivitis (odds ratio [OR] = 7.2, P = .004) and showed a trend toward significance in those with clinical conjunctivitis (OR = 2.9, P = .09). Eyeliner and eye shadow were implicated (OR = 4.1, P less than .05). We cultured samples of 13 students' makeup; one third of the eyeliners were positive for Moraxella. Nasal carriage of Moraxella was found in 35 (44%) of the 79 female boarders and in 20 (21%) of 97 Navajo patients at two nearby clinics. In a prospective evaluation of the effect of patient education and rifampin therapy on the occurrence of conjunctivitis during an 11-month follow-up period, both types of intervention were successful in significantly reducing the rate of conjunctivitis when compared with that in a control group.

PMID: 2929704, UI: 89190915

Cutis 1988 Dec;42(6):507-8

New York University Medical School.

Three patients are reported with allergic reactions to rosin in eye makeup: two to eyeshadow and one to mascara. In each instance, the dermatitis was bilateral and symmetrical. Several popular eyeshadow and mascara preparations contain rosin, while the Almay products are free of this ingredient. Rosin-sensitive patients should be instructed to read cosmetic ingredient labels before using any product and should realize that the European term "colophony" is a synonym for rosin. The numerous products that rosin-sensitive persons must avoid will be discussed in a future article.

PMID: 3229138, UI: 89152334

Am J Occup Ther 1988 Apr;42(4):253-5

Idaho Elks Rehabilitation Hospital, Boise 83701.

PMID: 3369536, UI: 88220518

AJR Am J Roentgenol 1987 May;148(5):1001-4

Cosmetics can produce severe distortion of the orbital contents in MR imaging. This distortion, typical of compounds that exhibit a permanent magnetic moment, results from iron oxide in the pigments used to produce dark shades of makeup. In general, the artifact created by cosmetics does not interfere with interpreting routine head scans. However, if the orbital contents are the subject of clinical concern, the images may then be rendered nondiagnostic. The artifact created by the makeup is propagated along the frequency-encoding axis of the images.

PMID: 3495103, UI: 87209511

J Am Acad Dermatol 1985 Dec;13(6):1062-9

During 64 months (1977 to 1983), twelve dermatologists from various sections of the United States studied a total of 713 patients with cosmetic dermatitis out of an estimated total of 13,216 patients with contact dermatitis. The number of patients seen for all causes during this period was 281,100. An important finding was that half of the patients or physicians were unaware that a cosmetic was responsible for their dermatitis. Skin care products, hair preparations (including colors), and facial makeup were responsible for the majority of the reactions. The most important objective was identification of causative ingredients. Eighty-seven percent of the subjects had patch tests. Fragrance, preservatives (Quaternium-15, formaldehyde, imidazolidinyl urea, and parabens), p-phenylenediamine, and glyceryl monothioglycolate were the most frequently identified allergic sensitizers, in that order. In addition to the clinical data, the study permitted assessment of the frequency of cosmetic reactions, although the data may not be entirely representative of the country at large because of the special interests of the dermatologists involved.

PMID: 4078100, UI: 86086629

Magn Reson Imaging 1985;3(3):287-9

It is well recognised that metals, especially iron, will cause artifacts in magnetic resonance (MR) images. Hitherto it has not been recognised that some facial cosmetics contain magnetic materials, in sufficient quantities to cause artifacts. We report a case of a 25-year-old female who had MR images of her orbits made while wearing mascara eye makeup. The resultant images showed distortion of the signal over the anterior aspect of both eyes. Examination following the removal of the eye makeup resulted in the acquisition of normal images. The typical ingredients of mascara are natural and synthetic waxes, glycerine, water, kaolin, preservatives, polymer film formers and pigments. A wide range of pigments may be used, especially iron oxide, which is a constituent of both brown and blue mascara. In addition it is likely that a number of mascaras will be contaminated with heavy metals. As a result of this observation we now ensure that all patients who are undergoing MR imaging of the head, remove all facial cosmetics as well as any jewelry prior to imaging.

PMID: 4079676, UI: 86091327

Am J Psychiatry 1984 Apr;141(4):499-503

Although it is routine for mental status reports to comment on appearance and attractiveness, there is no prevailing theory to explain the psychological impact of physical features. Two perceptual processes are proposed: nonverbal quasi-communication (counterfeit body language) and nonverbal quasi-information (spurious information). Applying this perspective to the sexual dimorphism of anatomy, clothing, and makeup, one finds that appearance fosters the belief that men and women have the personality traits that are stereotypically attributed to them, and this seems to be at the heart of physical attractiveness.

PMID: 6703126, UI: 84151343

J Am Acad Dermatol 1982 May;6(5):909-17

This prospective study (1977-1980) of cosmetic adverse reactions by eleven dermatologists identified 487 cases of cosmetic-induced dermatitis. Approximately half of the cases were covert in nature. Eight percent were due to allergic contact dermatitis; the face, eye, and upper arm were the most involved sites. Skin care products, hair preparations (including colors), and facial makeup products were the most commonly involved product categories. Fragrances, preservatives, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, p-phenylenediamine, and propylene glycol were most commonly identified causative agents. The data may not be representative of the country at large because of the special interests of the dermatologists involved.

PMID: 7096650, UI: 82239981

Contact Dermatitis 1978 Dec;4(6):379-80

PMID: 738048, UI: 79106387

Eye Ear Nose Throat Mon 1976 Apr;55(4):133-5

PMID: 1253945, UI: 76139998

Am J Ophthalmol 1975 Apr;79(4):596-601

Over 150 mascaras representing eight popular brands were examined for their susceptibility to microbial contamination during their use by study group members. Additional mascaras from patients with symptoms and clinical findings of long-term blepharitis also were investigated. Early in the study, two brands without preservatives supported reproducing populations of microorganisms, including potential eye pathogens. These products, as currently manufactured, were recalcitrant to microbial attack. Microbes associated with the facial skin and fingers of the study group users were typically isolated from mascaras after use. Initial microorganisms isolated from mascaras were usually transients. Establishment of reproducing populations within the cosmetics appeared related to the number of uses, personal habits of the user, and the formulation of the product. Four patients with staphylococcal blepharitis and cosmetics heavily laden with Staphylococcus epidermidis showed marked clinical improvement when they stopped using the contaminated cosmetics. The application of used eye area makeup prior to and following ocular surgery should be avoided.

PMID: 1119519, UI: 75125935

Eye Ear Nose Throat Mon 1975 Jan;54(1):34-5

PMID: 1109349, UI: 75058153

Am J Optom Arch Am Acad Optom 1973 Jul;50(7):571-4

PMID: 4521789, UI: 74110104